I love this divine shape. It’s the only thing I remember how to draw from geometry class. It’s nice equal sides and it’s pretty 60 degree angles. Yeah, I love this shape. So I really wanted to knit it because deep down I hate knitting and I figured it would be better if I could knit my favorite shape.
Not so much…
The problem (as any experienced knitter – unlike myself – knows) is that a knitted stitch is not equal in width and height. Yarn – in all it’s glory – simply refuses to abide by Euclidean geometry. Yarn says ‘fuck you lady, how about you go calculate something else instead of me’. At the end of my try-outs I was looking at a sad pile of oddly shaped triangles. The kind that requires a minimum of two angles and a side length to calculate anything else. I nearly stabbed my eyeballs out.
But I didn’t give up. Ha. No, not me. And that is why I’m writing a blog about knitting a damn equilateral triangle. Cause I bloody well worked for it.
Draw an equilateral triangle
You’ll want to make a blocking board for this. I used the back of an Ikea photo frame that I may or may not have dropped. But you can obviously use anything that will hold a nail.
Draw a straight line, the size of your triangle sides. Get a caliper. Stick the pointy part in the start of your line. Set the pencil on the end of your line. Draw a circle. Repeat by putting the pointy end on the end and drawing a second circle. The intersection of the two circles is the third point of your triangle. If you’ve made two full circles, you can now draw two triangle that share one side.
Put your nails in and voila, you have a blocking board.
Pattern in garter stitch
- (KFB) x2
- K1, KFB, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K2, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K4, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K6, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K8, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K10, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K12, KFB, K1
- K1, KFB, K14, KFB, K1
- BO knit wise
Pattern in stockinette stitch
Heads up: In stockinette DO NOT knit the two 14 sts. repeats. You only have two row with 14 stitches; the one with the PFB and the K14. I did this because otherwise the stockinette will bulge when attached to garter stitch triangles.
- (PFB) x2
- P1, PFB, PFB, P1
- P1, PFB, P2, PFB, P1
- P1, PFB, P4, PFB, P1
- P1, PFB, P6, PFB, P1
- P1, PFB, P8, PFB, P1
- P1, PFB, P10, PFB, P1
- K1, KFB, K12, KFB, K1
- P1, PFB, P14, PFB, P1
- BO purl wise
Design and grafting
Here’s what I’ll be making. I’m currently using Scheepjes Stonewashed. I knit on 4 mm needles.
Here’s a disclaimer: I suck at needlework. So I’m the last person to give you advise on how to sew things together. But here’s how I did it and the issues that I encountered.
I used the mattress stitch. It’s nice and straight and it doesn’t pull. When you attach triangles that are both in garter stitch, keep in mind the following:
- Check the direction of your rows. You may like them straight, or you may prefer them angled.
- Stitch two cast off rows together. It looks neat. Also, it’s bloody easy.
- Don’t start stitching in the K1 of a triangle. Each triangle is attached to three others. If you stitch through the K1 at the top, you’ll end up with a gap. Start at the K2 row. Later on you can join the yarn ends of the tops, closing up.
- The purl row is attached to another purl row.
- In between every purl row, you attach two knit rows. They might be a little hidden because of the increase stitches. But they’re there.
- If you look carefully at the knit rows, you’ll see a few horizontal bars on one side of your triangle. Those are the KFB stitches. I don’t like em so I use that side as the ‘wrong’ side of my design like you would with fabric.
So far I’m halfway with my design. I’d like to experiment some more with different stitches and maybe combine stitches in one triangle. When that’s done I’ll revisit this post and post a nice PDF with the patterns as a download. Also, if you come across any mistakes I made, please leave a comment.